Sappan Wood Dye Recipe
Have you been waiting impatiently for it? Here is the last article in our series “The secrets of vegetable dyes”! This week, we introduce you to a new tree typical of the Vietnamese tropical region: the caesalpinia sappan! This shrub is part of the redwood family, which also includes the better-known Brazilwood.
What is sappan?
The sappan is a shrub that grows in Southeast Asia, on hills. It is very present in the local landscape, from Burma to Vietnam, via Laos and Cambodia. With its small yellow flowers, its large pods and its aerial leaves, it is a delightful plant! In addition, it is very useful in the garden, since it defends the plantations against herbivorous animals that could pass by. Its leaves also have the particularity of promoting the growth of exotic fruits present in the surroundings, such as mangoes and bananas. For vegetable dyeing, it is the wood itself that interests us; but once cut, the tree grows back very quickly from its stump!
Sappan is a shrub that grows in Southeast Asia, on hills.
Did you know?
Sappan wood is the name given to the heart of the trunk and branches of the tree, which contain a red coloring substance. This precious resource has long been prized in Asia for its dyeing properties, to the point of being exported to Europe. The dye extracted from sappan wood is said to have medicinal properties and is also used to make ink for printing prints, or to dye silk fabrics. It gives cotton a red hue with hints of purple. In Japan, this color was notably reserved for dyeing the Emperor's clothes!
Sappan wood contains a red coloring substance.
Want to know more about this plant and its uses? Here are some resources to sustain botany lovers!
The weavers take a theoretical course on the chemistry of plant dyes.
Mrs. Thao Vu's Dyeing Class
Mrs Thao Vu, an eco-responsible fashion designer, has passed on her expertise in plant dyeing to Lao weavers, so that they can develop their dyeing methods as well as their textile production activity (carding, spinning and weaving). For these women, living their passion is a daily pleasure and they dream of seeing their daughters perpetuate this traditional know-how!
The recipe for vegetable dye
This time again, the list of necessary ingredients is very short: the dyers need sappan wood and cream of tartar, quite simply!
Did you miss our previous articles and want to know more about washing and mordanting cotton, the essential steps that precede dyeing? Here's a catch-up course ! Plus, we tell you all about cream of tartar.
Come on, let's roll up our sleeves... and let's get started on this new vegetable dyeing course!
The first step is to cut the sappan wood into small pieces.
It must then be boiled in a saucepan filled with water for 30 to 45 minutes, in order to extract the coloring.
To hot dye, heat the dye bath over low heat.
Then the textiles are immersed in it, before the temperature is gradually increased until it reaches 60°C.
45 minutes later… and here is the result!
Dyeing successful!
To cold dye, simply leave the fabrics to soak in the bath for at least an hour, and up to overnight if you want a more pronounced colored result.
Last step: Thao Vu and Pom wash and rinse the fabrics in clean water.
These are then spread out in the shade while they dry.
What a beautiful color chart!
Light tones are obtained in a single bath. For dark tones, the dyeing process is repeated a second time.
Our social and solidarity economy project in Vietnam
The weavers of the Dien Bien Phu cooperative were able to be trained thanks to the funding of this training by the Agir sa Vie foundation, as well as your donations to our association.
You wish support our projects , contribute to the development of weavers and the improvement of their daily lives?
Even a small gesture can help these women live their passion! Thank you!
